Identity area
Reference code
Title
Date(s)
- 1972-1993 (Creation)
Level of description
Series
Extent and medium
Context area
Name of creator
Repository
Archival history
These patterns were collected during Jill Oakes and Rick Riewe's numerous research trips to northern communities. Jill's research documents the factors influencing skin clothing production throughout the circumpolar region and focuses on how information is passed on from one generation to the next, why skin clothing traditions are culturally important, and the role seamstresses play in recording their cultural history into their families' clothing.These patterns were part of a larger donation, which included 3 articles of inuit clothing that now form part of the Inuit Art Collection. hese patterns were collected by Jill Oakes during her research in support of her MA and PhD. The patterns were created specifically for the research projects. They were donated to the Clara Lander Library at the Winnipeg Art Gallery in 2010 by Jill Oakes.
Immediate source of acquisition or transfer
Content and structure area
Scope and content
The over 200 patterns of traditional Inuit clothing were made by artisans throughout the Canadian Arctic and Greenland, including older patterns of garments not made today. Many have syllabic notations and instructions written on them. The traditional layout of each pattern piece on caribou, seal, rabbit, or bird and assorted other types of skins is included for most patterns. All patterns include the artisan's name [some appear to be male] and community. Many of these patterns were included in Jill's dissertation and publications. The patterns in this collection do not represent the traditional method of cutting out material for clothing. Traditionally, seamstresses, through years of training and practice, rely on hand and eye measurements to determine how to cut their sewing material. These patterns were created specifically for the researcher in order to document their distinct styles and construction techniques. The patterns come in various styles. Most are specific to gender (men's boots, woman's amautik). There are also some age specific items, including children's clothing, as well as doll clothing patterns. The patterns are made of a variety of materials including waxed paper, lined paper, packing paper, maps, newspapers, school paper, stiff paper board, and fabric. There is a pair of seal-skin fur mittens, one of which has had the stitching removed. One of the pattern artists created the amautik donated by Drs. Oakes and Riewe: Ulayok Lucy Kaviok. It is possible that the patterns from Grise Fiord are those of the other seamstress whose garment is included in the donation, Tataga Akpaleeapik. It is not known if any of the patterns were used to create any of the three items donated.
Appraisal, destruction and scheduling
Accruals
System of arrangement
A list of patterns and seamstresses was provided but the names and garments did not correspond to the pattern numbers on the packets the patterns were originally stored in. A review noted that the older, crossed-out numbers on the patterns do correspond to the old list. The patterns have been organized according to the newer packet numbers. Several packets of instructions and photographs are organized into a separate series. Several patterns had clear adhesive tape attached to the sides. In most cases, the ends of the tape extending past the pattern piece were cut off to avoid accidental damage. Where labels were apparent on the pattern pieces (hood; back, etc) they were included. If terms or other writing was apparent but not labels, those terms were included in quotation marks. If there was nothing, then [no name] was affixed to the item. For files that originally contained small "model" patterns, these patterns were scanned to a single sheet of paper then placed in an archival envelope inside the original envelope. A copy of the scanned pieces is included in the folder for ease in viewing and ensuring smaller pieces are not overlooked. A digital version of these sheets is kept. All items listed at the item level are pattern pieces unless otherwise indicated. Titles for pattern pieces are taken from writing on the pattern pieces. Some appear to be labels while others appear to be directions. Where both English and Inuktitut are available, the English terms were used, but only because of the arranger's lack of familiarity with Inuktitut.